Travel and Leisure
March, 2004
Review by Peter Jon Lindberg

Mass Appeal

Just over the Charles River from Boston is the most vibrant small town—or the most intimate city—in America: Cambridge, transformed. WHERE TO EAT Cambridge's restaurant scene has long challenged Boston's. Lately, a new generation is getting even more creative. The stalwart UpStairs at the Pudding has moved to Winthrop Park and renamed itself UpStairs on the Square (91 Winthrop St.; 617/864-1933; dinner for two $100). Its zany space resembles a gentleman's club designed by Lewis Carroll, with walls of coral and turquoise, leopard carpets, fireplaces, and rococo chandeliers. The formal Soirée room serves indulgent dishes such as "rabbit two ways" (a savory rack coupled with an escarole-stuffed loin); the Monday Club Bar is where well-shod ladies lunch on apple-smoked duck salad or brioche panini with Gorgonzola dolce and fresh figs.

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